Tuttlingen to Riedlingen

I thought I’d make it past Riedlingen to Ulm today but the ride was a hellish—which is not the same as unenjoyable—one with rainy dirt roads along the Danube. Turns out that not getting fenders was a terrible idea. 

So. Much. Mud.

Anyway, I took lots of stops in towns, at German backeries, and to get my phone service working again. Tesco Mobile ensures that when you leave the EU (that is, when they can charge exorbitant rates for data) your service works immediately, but when you travel within the EU (that is, when your data is free by law so that Tesco can’t price gouge) you always have to spend at least an hour uncovering and entering some special magic code deep into your phone’s settings to get service. 

It hit me today how surreal this trip feels. From taking a boat to riding with my friend Will for a few days to camping to meeting new friends to riding my bicycle every day, it’s hard to describe. 

Miguel, the cool guy who bought me a beer yesterday, is at tonight’s campsite too. I recommend this campsite. It’s owned by a friendly German couple, has a good shower, and lots of cyclists stay here. It’s called Campingplatz Vöhringer Hof. Its vintage vending machine makes drinking a beer with new friends even more fun.

Tomorrow is on to Ulm. Only 50km, which is perfect because I’ll have time to explore. 

Another fantastic day

Schaffhausen to Singen to Tuttlingen

I was up early at 6:45 to get ready, eat a leisurely breakfast and head out by 8. 

The hostel breakfast was great. Definitely eat the Youth Hostel breakfast in Schaffhausen.

Today was an absolutely wonderful ride. It was hard as hell coming up out of the Black Forest but all I could do was laugh out loud to myself like a crazy person at the notion that I get to live this cycling dream! 

I stopped in a little town called Stein am Rhein just before 10:30 am. It’s a picturesque old Swiss village turned tourist stop-off. Bikes are parked everywhere because a few different EuroVelo routes cross through the town. All this is within a plaza packed with people, chairs, fountains, and ornately painted buildings. 

I made a pit stop at the River Bike and Cafe to check out their bicycles and left with a delicious ginger beer. The owner of the place was a nice guy. 

After Stein am Rhein there was a big climb out of Switzerland and the Black Forest into Germany. The forest gave off a cool breeze. The climb rewarded me with what must be the coolest campsite in the world, the Zeltplatz für Radfahrer, or Campingplace for Cyclists. Whatever you do, stay here. 

I ate vegan currywurst, fries, and tabouleh for dinner and my only regret is that I didn’t make it in time for the thermal baths. The campsite only costs 5eur and is located in a serene public park that includes a skatepark, fitness park, two restaurants, and a live music venue with deliciously cheap beer. All this made for a fun night. 

I met an Argentinian guy at the campsite named Miguel who lives in France. Miguel bought me a beer and we had a great time talking about the route and the other bike tours Miguel’s been on. It was great to find an English speaker. Let’s hope he’s even half as cool as my friend Maac was!

The campground