Today began with a true Serbian sendoff.
After getting some pastries, I crossed the square to enjoy my breakfast and order some coffee.
Why did I need coffee? Because despite getting to bed at 9:30 pm, I managed maybe 30 minutes of sleep thanks to a mosquito swarm.
I thought I wouldn’t have to contend with vampires until Romania.
Anyone who claims to be a pacifist hasn’t had to choose between sleep and mosquito genocide. I chose the latter and groggily but with a clear conscience awoke to find my own blood splattered on the hostel walls. A crimson spackle to which my victims (i.e. tormentors) were stuck. I left happy knowing that their larvae would die from bloodthirst. Good riddance.
With a well-deserved coffee in hand, I mentally prepared to leave Serbia. A friendly and drunk gentleman named Drageas took an interest and joined my table. Once Drageas learned that I’m American he renamed me Johnson and sarcastically suggested I affix the American flag to my bike. Anger at the NATO (read American) bombing of Serbia is palpable.
A smiling man came over to us and exchanged a few words with Drageas before heading off with some of Drageas’ cash. A few minutes later he brought Drageas a pack of cigarettes and kept the change. It was clear that Drageas and the other Serbian men didn’t respect this man or other Romas generally. There was a clear sense that was he was more a novelty and the butt of their tired jokes than he was their equal, to them.
After some convincing, I gave in and Drageas hurried inside to order me a beer too. After half a beer for me and two for Drageas, I paid the bill, bid adieu to my new friends, then rode toward Bragovo, a Bulgarian border town.
Once I’d crossed the border into Bulgaria and after some big climbs out of Negotin, I had one of these insane smiles on my face. I was happy to be alive and to be riding on this day in this place. That was until I got lost in Jesen. Whatever you do, don’t take the main route through there. Take the shortcut on the quiet road instead.
Today’s destination, Vdin, like seemingly every other Eastern European town I’ve visited is taring its town square up ostensibly to restore it. Despite the complete lack of sidewalks, the town is pretty with a water walk that lead’s to Vdin’s ancient fortress and walls. Vdin is home to Bulgaria’s second-largest synagogue too. It’s abandoned but well worth a visit. Apparently you can easily push past a hole cut in its fence to explore inside. I opted not to.
After a couple beers and some pullups near the water, I mosied back to the Bononia Hotel where I found a cheap and quintessentially Soviet room.
Today’s Miscellany
