linz

Linz to Zwentendorf an der Danau

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Today was by far the longest ride of the trip at around 115 miles. 

I expected to stop in Melk but kept on until Zwentendorf. The campsite just outside of Linz sucked, avoid it if you can. A guy played loud hardcore German music until 11 pm. I’m tempted to say Rammstein then again that’s the only German hardcore rock ban that I know. 

Le Shite Campsite

It stayed hot until 7 pm when the sky cracked wide open and let fall a storm from hell. I got lucky again and found a cyclist pub at just the right moment. I took refuge there for an hour and ordered a beer. I made friends with a very drunk and gregarious Austrian guy. We talked about Arnold Schwarzenegger, the guy’s distaste for Austria’s military police (three of whom were drinking a few feet from us), and he tried to help find me a place to stay, to no avail. No problem though, a sopping wet campsite was just a few km from the pub in Zwentendorf. 

I should mention that today’s scorcher of a ride included a jaunt through the Wachau wine region. I stopped for a delicious glass of local Grüner. The towns in this region were at peak capacity with tourists fresh off their Danube river cruises clamoring to get in and out of tchotchke shops.

The views of the Wachau region were unique. Whereas in France the vineyards are atop sloping hills above the Loire, in Wachau the vines grow on the steep cliffs that drop straight down into the Danube. 

Vienna tomorrow!

Today’s Miscellany:

There was no such window
An unenthusiastic Pullup Challenge

Passau to Linz

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This leg between Passau, Germany, and Linz, Austria must be one of the best bicycle rides in the known universe. Its cool breezes, gentle downward slope, the s-curved turns of the Danube, bike lanes on either side of the river, and the Lord of the Rings-like views combine for a delightful — with an emphasis on delight — ride. 

5 am morning mist on the Danube

I awoke at 5 am and excitedly packed up my gear. I get to see Abby soon! The forecast is 40ºC, which also motivated my early start. I was out of the campsite at 6:06 am.

I ran into the Green Riders again a few times today. They’re a group of cyclists I’ve mentioned in previous posts who stop to volunteer on organic farms along their route. I had to be terse because I really did not want to miss my train in Linz. 

Mission accomplished! I made it onto the high-speed train, but the train overheated so we sat stalled in Salzburg in 40ºC weather without AC for over an hour. So much for high speed! 

At least this delay won’t reduce my time with Abby. She arrives tomorrow. 

Heading into an S-curve

As we sat in the train waiting for it to do its thing, a conductor came over the loudspeaker to say a few words in German. I looked around to gauge the locals’ responses. All I saw were heads shaking left and right. So I sarcastically asked the guy across from me, “Were they telling us that we’re delayed?” 

“No,” he said with resolute Austrian sincerity, “they’re taking us to East Station instead of Central Station.” 

‘No problem,’ I thought. That was until I looked up where my campsite was. It was a 45-minute bike ride from Ost Station. Shit. 

The hills were alive, as they say, heading out of Austria toward Munich

Luckily, an Australian named Patrick stepped up and found a connecting train from Ost to Central. On our way to the transfer, we attempted to load our bikes into the elevator. No dice. The elevator was broken. At this point, I was having flashbacks to when I loaded my bike on my back and climbed that small mountain back in Germany. A nice Austrian guy saw my struggle and helped me lug The Green Machine up the stairs. 

After the connecting train and a 15-minute bike ride, I arrived at an urban hostel campsite combo in Munich where I ate dinner, had a beer, and set up camp in anticipation of the fun weekend ahead.