Budapest to Solt

I tolerated a white bread and dry corn flakes breakfast at the Unity Hostel then slipped into my still-damp bib shorts and left in search of a bike shop from which to procure chain lube.

All appeared to be going well enough—The Green Machine felt especially light and spritely: ‘I guess those rest days paid off,’ I thought.

The Green Machine waits restlessly in anticipation of today’s ride

Then, as I reached the edge of Budapest and stopped to take a photo of a skatepark beneath a highway, it hit me. My handlebar bag was missing. It’s the only bag that matters, the whole kit and, yes, the caboodle too! It housed my irreplaceable trip journals and my passport, among other important items. An immediate panic-induced shot of acidic bile jolted my stomach and a cold sweat smacked my face. 

‘Where did the bag go?’ Then reflexively, ‘Who took it?’ 

After 30 seconds of anger at the alleged thief, I realized that in my haste to get my bags out of the elevator and onto my bike I probably left it on the hostel stairwell. 

So I pedaled like Lance from the outskirts of the city back to Unity Hostel. “Please let it be there, please let it be there,” I mouthed as I rode.

‘How much would I pay for my bag to be where I left it when I arrive,’ I asked myself, ‘$1,000?’ Luckily, I didn’t have to answer this query because my bag was right where I had hoped it would be at the bottom of the staircase. WHEW. 

My sincerest apologies to those I’d convicted of a certain type of thought crime.

The pitstop that saved my passport

At this point I rechecked my luggage and left Budapest for the second time in half as many mornings. The ride out of the city was a mix of nice river roads, a detour that a concerned cyclist posted directions for (thankfully), and a hellish freeway that lasted an hour with semi’s whistling inches from my left ear.

Despite the hectic start to the day, I felt good and wanted to ride into the evening so I flagged down a couple of cyclists coming from the opposite direction to ask if they’d passed any campsites within 25km. They said that campsites were few and far between, in the truest sense of the phrase, so I stopped at a pension with an open room for 16eur.

I recommend staying here at the EuroVelo 6 Stop Pension. The husband and wife who own it are gracious hosts with supremely comfortable lodgings for the weary rider.

The Eurovelo 6 Pension

The pension was near a Lidl, which I rode to and picked up some food for dinner: hummus, bread, and bulgur did the trick. 

A good day. Funny how it can take losing something to come to understand just how important that thing is. Thanks to this morning’s mishap I now know I’d be in despair if I lost my journals. They’re the only irreplaceable things I have with me on this trip aside from my health so I was at first self-critical over having lost them, that was until I reminded myself that even loving parents forget their own children sometimes.

The Day’s Miscellany

Budapest

Abby and I spent the weekend eating, drinking, and walking our way through Budapest in what amounted to a gluttonous couple of days.

A highlight of this trip to Budapest was Memento Park. It’s a statue park outside city center. After about a 30-minute bus ride you get off on the side of a road near what I think was a tiling business. 

Across the street massive statues poke up over the horizon. After the Velvet Revolution, some of the biggest soviet statues in Budapest were collected and consolidated here as an open-air exhibition. 

If you like art and are interested in Eastern European history than this statue park is a must-visit. Everything is self-guided. As of 2019, the museum is still under construction. In unfinished unlit rooms, massive busts of Lenin and of kid-Lenin jump out at you. 

In the completed statue park there are some magnificent pieces of art and monuments to oppression. 

After Monument Park, we headed for the thermal baths at Széchenyi where we enjoyed a relaxed afternoon. 

We finished the night with a late-night falafel fueled walk along the Danube. 

Falafel time

On Sunday, we ventured across the river from Pest to Buda to explore a local market. We got veg sausage, langos, olives, bread, veg cheese, Hungarian sweetbreads, and pickles then found a picnic spot. Lucky me, the park had a fitness park where I completed the pull-up challenge. 

I spent most of the rest of our time together urging Abby to blow off her job and join me in Belgrade, to no avail. 

What I imagine the Metropol Hotel looks like in “A Gentleman in Moscow

Tomorrow I’m off to Solt.

Riverside conversation can’t be beat

The Weekend’s Miscellany

Vegazzi has the best pizza in Eastern Europe, at least. This isn’t the last time it’ll appear in today’s miscellany
You gotta have a lángos
Picnic on the Buda side of the river
After Abby left, I found this spot for my first dinner of the night. As it turns out, Bollywood Vegi Bar has some really good naan.
Vegazzi has its own gravitational field in which I was caught on my way back from Bollywood. I wanted to try the pesto pizza and the margherita, so I ordered one pizza with half of each. Instead, I ended up two full pizzas and a journey to the limits of distention.
Action shot in Csakajósör Kft., the best place for a beer in Budapest

Nagymaros to Budapest

Last night at camp I met a Turkish man and his daughter who are taking a cycling trip to celebrate her high school graduation. I’ve been wondering about what it’s like to cycle into Istanbul so I walked up to them and introduced myself. This turned out to be a great move. They cooked up a pot of Turkish tea and we talked for a couple of hours before calling it a night.

We decided to ride into Budapest together this morning. Throughout the ride I listened as my new friend told me about Turkish politics and history. Turns out that they were even more directionally challenged than me. Every 10 minutes we just had to stop to check the map and ensure we were headed in the right direction. This didn’t help much, we often made the wrong turn regardless. 

We braked for breakfast pastries then again for lunch and beer. 

What was supposed to be a short 35km ride ended up taking all day due to our (fun) stops and (frustrating) wrong turns. We made one last stop for a drink along the Danube just before Budapest then parted ways as we crossed into the city. They went on to meet with a friend working as a Turkish attache in Hungary and I was off to find Abby’s and my Airbnb.

After hauling my bike and gear up four stories into the Airbnb, I immediately smelled a gas leak in the kitchen. After some sniffing around I found that the source of the leak was the meter. The host assured me there was no leak but the stench of mercaptan told me otherwise. There was no way in hell we’d be staying there.

I booked a last-minute room at Hotel Memories Oldtown. It was so much better than any comparably priced Airbnb. I recommend this hotel. 

Abby’s flight was scheduled to arrive after 10 pm, so I was on the hook for dinner alone. I wasted no time picking a restaurant, Napfenyes for their vegan sarmale is a no-brainer. 

Today’s Miscellany

Existential traffic sign