Bart to Mulhouse to Basel

Out of the France and into the expensive: Switzerland.

What a day to be alive

I left at 8 am sharp after a sleepless night in Bart, which is, coincidentally, the same way my last trip to the Bay Area ended.

A shrewdness of teenagers was staying at the same half star hotel as me. They slammed doors, ran, screamed, set off alarms, and, I assume, did all the other things a group of apes would do too—like throw their own poop. At 1 am, I politely asked these baboons to quiet down and they did. That is until 2:30 am, at which point I catapulted out of bed, opened my door, and angrily shouted: “Shut the fuck up!!!” That did the trick. 

Today the just miles melted, the weather was pleasant, the scenery varied and vibrant, and I didn’t feel a stressor in the world. 

1280km down, 1570km or so to go until Budapest. Then onward to the Black Sea.

I made it to Mulhouse after what felt like 15 minutes of riding. A pretzel with a bunch of fixin’s including olives and tomatoes was the first sign that I was leaving France and inching closer toward Germany.

Heading into Mulhouse

I finished Ursula K. Le Guin’s short story The Ones Who Walk Away from Omelas over lunch. I can’t recommend it enough. It is a short, thought-provoking, fantastical meditation on utilitarianism and ethics—a parable, a commentary on society, and much more, I’m sure. It read more like a poem than a story (in the best way). Just read it. Don’t google it beforehand.

Once I was back in the saddle I listened to the Very Bad Wizards (spoiler alert: don’t click until you’ve read the story) podcast episode that discusses Omelas, which I also recommend.

Mulhouse’s square

Mulhouse has a vibrant historic quarter and nice parks. It’s the kind of place I’d like to spend a summer learning French. 

Au revoir, France

Just outside of Mulhouse is where I finally learned how to sit on my bicycle. That sounds absurd. But it’s true. My seat was tilted in the wrong direction and I was forcing the wrong part of my pelvis onto it. Now no more ass pain and more power to the pedals. 

Hey, Power to the Pedals. I like that one. 

I quickly made it to Basel but first stopped for not one, not two, not three, but four pullup challenges.

Basel has some incredible public fitness infrastructure, not the least of which was this climbing wall:

I rode past the wall up to a basketball court where I played three games of pickup. One guy didn’t like that I was gonna play in my cycling gear but then I torched him and all was good in the world. The basketball felt great. I was rusty after not playing for 10 months and after the 66-mile ride, but I had a blast.

letsgooooo

At the hostel, a woman came into the dorm to go to sleep at 7 pm. Then a real loud guy came in talking on his cell phone. He soon introduced himself to me as Adam. He’s a substitute teacher from CA. The lady gave Adam the Evil Eye and he just ignored her. She stormed out of the room in a huff just like a child would. Adam immediately started shit-talking the lady and saying how crazy it was to expect quiet hours to start at 7 pm (he’s not wrong). 

Adam and I left the hostel to grab a couple beers and dinner from a convenience store in the Basel train station. We made a b-line from there to the Rhine where we enjoyed the sunset with a thousand of our closest Swiss friends. 

I split from Adam once the conversation waned to find some more food (mission accomplished with an incredible soy chunks wrap).

Soy chunk wrap action shot

As I was getting ready for bed the sleepy lady from earlier came back into the room and told me she “heard everything” to which I said, “Well then you know I didn’t say anything about you.” On her way out she said, “Just tell him that every insult is a blessing in disguise.” I laughed. 

Besançon to Bart

Today’s ride was short but felt long. My butt really hurts and Bart is a two stoplight town.

Just after lunch, I met an older german cyclist with long white hair wearing blue jeans and a t-shirt. He said to me unprompted, “I vwear blue jeans because deyre comfortable and I want to look like ‘hey he’s off to dah next bar’.” The man told me he tours to answer the question, “What next will I do with my life?” 

So it’s not just me then. 

Tomorrow I’ll ride all the way to Basel by way of Mulhouse. We’ll see how the ol’ butt cheeks respond. 

The way out of Besançon

There were no open restaurants in Bart. I lucked into finding a closing bakery though. They had a slice of pizza, a baguette, a savory cheese tart, and a four-pound bag of day-old croissants that I snagged for just 2eur. “I’ll take ’em all,” I said.

Dinner, at least.

I recommend riding past or stopping short of Bart.