Today started with a minor disappointment: Miguel told me that he and his girlfriend could not ride today. She awoke with a sore throat and decided to rest. It has been a while since I had a riding partner, so I was looking forward to their company. No problem though, because I was able to set my own pace, which spat me out 130km down the road in Negotin.
The climb out of Donji Milanovac is intense, a 10% gradient for three kilometers after a set of somewhat challenging rolling hills. I loved every second of it. This stage of the journey is ripe with photo-ops: the Iron Gates, the unique hillside monument to Decebalus, the last king of Dacia, and the varied facades of the Danube Gorge.
The Iron Gates are not as impressive or gawk-worthy as the maps and other blogs make them out to be. Once there I had the “choice” of crossing into Bulgaria. I say “choice” because I don’t consider crossing into steady semi-truck traffic without a shoulder an option.
Stay in Serbia as long as the route allows.
After a challenging 60 kilometers and the massive yet underwhelming Iron Gates, I was ready to call it quits in Koldovo. That was until I rolled into town and saw a sign that explained the next city was only 67km away.
I got tempted, got burek, then got going and crushed another 67km through road construction, dirt roads, and, some nice river riding.
I’m glad I kept going because Negotin has a lot going on. There’s a summer night bazaar along the pedestrian corridor. I stopped at a grocery store for some Serbian puffed peanut snacks then ate at a pizza spot before calling it a night.